Tradition and future
A good wine starts in the vineyard. A truth that is also a guiding principle for Sophocles Vlassides, the founder of Vlassides Winery.
The winery itself is worth a visit, both by wine lovers but also those who like art and architecture. With its modern design, you would think it would stand out from its surroundings. Instead, it almost feels like part of its setting and I associate it with the clearly layered mountains that flank the estate.
The closeness and respect for nature is also evident in the wines. I am guided by Themis Socratous – Operations Manager. Her love of wine and pride in being part of what is created there is clear. As well as her solid knowledge of the subject.
We start with Alátes. The name means wings in the Cypriot dialect of Greek. And this wine from old vines definitely gives the soul wings. It’s made from 100% Xynisteri, one of Cyprus’ indigenous grapes. It spends the first 6 months in an oak tank and then matures in the bottle. The aroma is rich with white roses, citrus and orange blossom. The flavour is well-rounded with soft minerality, citrus, spices like basil and lemon balm. The acidity is there, but is so well integrated that it only adds structure and freshness to the wine. While this wine certainly has the capacity to age 5-6 years, it is absolutely ready to be enjoyed now. Preferably with a well-prepared fish.
Among the red wines we got to try, I was hooked on Artion. A full-bodied red wine with a strong personality. This is a wine that definitely benefits from being decanted. It needs to breathe and prepare itself before it meets the world. But oh what a wine that then takes the centre stage!
The aroma is full-bodied, dark cherries, leather, blackcurrants. It gradually develops in the glass and notes of dark chocolate, tobacco and forest berries add layer after layer.
Once I taste the wine, because believe me, the aromas are so complex that I have to take a long time to savour it. But what greets me once I sip the wine is an even fuller symphony, if possible. Dark forest berries, leather, spices such as basil, thyme, tarragon, bay leaves, all wrapped in velvety soft fullness with smooth tannins and a structuring acidity.
For those who can, I recommend buying at a minimum two cases of this wonderful wine and saving one of them for at least 10 years. This is a Lady that in a few years will be a Queen.
Vlassides is a winemaker with his feet deep in tradition and the Cypriot soil. At the same time he is visionary and innovative. Visitors to the winery will have the chance to taste some unique wines from his Dokimes series. These are all experiments that will eventually go into production. Visitors will be a flexible test panel and customer survey in one. I had the chance to try an Assyrtiko, which with its bright notes of fruits such as lime, pink grapefruit, pears and apples made me associate with summer, sun and garden parties.
I hope to return to Cyprus soon. And I already know that in my suitcase back home there will be a number of bottles with the Vlassides label.
Maria Scharffenberg
Sommelier and Teacher